Day 47 & 48: The End

While it took us close to four hours to pack her up back in Oxford 58 days prior, it took us about 15 minutes to unload Stevie of all her contents and remove our trusty roof rack so that they could be donated. We had just finished our drive back from Lake Baikal to Ulan-Ude, and we had one final appointment on the rally - sending Stevie back west to what will her be her final resting place in a scrapyard in Estonia. Only the driver was needed to fill out shipping and scrapping paperwork, so Tanner took Stevie for one final spin to the rail yard 30 minutes outside of town while Mike and Joe waited in Ulan-Ude. It was a weird feeling when Tanner returned without our Skoda that had become essentially our home over the past several weeks. Just like that she was gone, and our Rally was finally over. We had reached our final destination, and we had no treacherous drives ahead of us. All that remained was one final Rally get-together at a Ulan-Ude pub before catching our flights.

Saturday marked the second out of three closing ceremony parties the Adventurists (The Mongol Rally organizers) put on for rally teams. Ever since late August, the finish line had been opened for rally teams who were finishing in a staggered fashion. Different teams choose different routes and timelines. Ours was somewhere in the middle of duration - many teams were still crossing into Mongolia; some are still in Tajikistan. If you recall from a previous blog, there are two Norwegians that should be heading north through China still as they just arrived in Bangkok 10 days or so ago. We felt our ending date was appropriately chosen. We got to see several places along the road and, like all teams on the rally, were becoming tiresome of daily 10+ hour days in the car.

Saturday during the day, we lounged about in a western coffee shop that we had frequented each day we had been in Ulan-Ude. The baristas at this point even recalled all of our first names. Simply put, we had done too much sightseeing to be bothered to explore the very-USSR reminiscent town. Joe and Tanner went to the closing party while Mike unfortunately had to hang back as he had to deal with an inconvenient bout of “Turkmen two-step”. The party was at a Karaoke bar outside of the city-center. It was great to meet other ralliers and share stories from the road, but for the most part, all the teams were mentally and physically drained from the journey. On top of that, many of the teams we had become close with over the Pamirs and the Caspian ferry had already finished and headed home. The enthusiasm and eagerness to meet other teams that was hallmark of the start party in Prague and the beach party in Romania had clearly faded. Teams were ready to go home. 

Sunday marked the 59th day since we left Oxford. In that time, we crossed into 21 countries, logged over 11,000 miles on the road, spent way too much time together crammed into a Skoda hatchback, consumed our yearly dietary sodium intake in instant ramen dinners, finished four audiobooks, cycled through all of our Spotify playlists countless times, and eventually made it to Mongolia. It was a trip of highs and lows for sure. Anchoring on the Caspian ferry, breaking down in the Pamirs, getting stuck alone in the middle of nowhere Mongolia, driving through Kazakhstan, petty arguments...these were less than fun times. But on the other hand, conquering the Pamir Highway, riding the Transfargasan, exploring Istanbul and Tbilisi, relaxing at Son-Kol, meeting people from all over the world, and driving across the indescribable landscape that is Mongolia made the trip unforgettable. Even though we spent only but a few days in many of these countries, I’ll always have memories of the places by the sights we saw and the people we encountered. The excitement, interest, and hospitality from locals we received along the way will be something I’ll always remember of Central Asia. It’s quite unique to this part of the world, and I don’t think I’ll see it anywhere else. I know many westerners tense up at any country that ends in -Stan, and, political relations aside, the people we encountered in those places were incredible. It’s a shame that many of these countries we visited are such a hassle to get to and likely I’ll never visit again. If I had to choose one to revisit - Kyrgyzstan is on the top of the list (skip Azerbaijan). 

As for our car, Stevie was an absolute beast. She suffered no engine problems which saved us four auto-mechanic noobs from ever having to get our hands too dirty. Lastly, we’d like to thank everyone who donated to Ramp Less Traveled. Through your generosity, we have been able to help several prospective college students who have suffered traumatic spinal cord injuries. While the charity can get lost behind the day-to-day of the rally, it’s important to remember that you all really made an impact on people’s lives. Our journey might be over, but not for survivors of these injuries. We ask that you continue to share Ramp Less Traveled’s story. We know we will. 

Looking back at the Mongol rally, I know I’ll soon come to miss our days on the road - even the bad ones. For an adventure that we had been planning for over a year and contemplating on for what feels like triple that, it flew by. I’ve come to realize that most of the countries on the rally we visited and people we met along the way I probably will never see again. It’s a sobering thought. Still, the handful of glimpses, stories, and shared experience will always make the trip worth it. Over the next few weeks, we’ll all return home to America to resume the Monday - Friday grind. It will undoubtedly be a bit difficult time adjusting when our daily challenge will no longer be 120 miles of unpaved road. 

This will be the last blog from Fleetwood Yak. For those who have followed along - we hoped you enjoyed our tales from the road. Thank you all for all the support along the way. Signing off one last time - Joe, Dan, Mike, and Tanner of Fleetwood Yak.

Team Fleetwood Yak at the start party

Team Fleetwood Yak at the start party

Rest easy, Stevie.

Rest easy, Stevie.

Day 45 & 46: Lake Baikal

Miles driven: 330 miles

Time in Car: 6 hours 

Borders crossed: 0

Bittersweet last camping meal of the crowd favorite, ground beef tacos. Find your Baikal.

Bittersweet last camping meal of the crowd favorite, ground beef tacos. Find your Baikal.

After a celebratory night in Ulan Ude, we drove Stevie to Lake Baikal for her final adventure. Lake Baikal is a massive lake just west of Ulan Ude. I cannot understate enough just how massive of a lake this is. It holds almost a quarter of the world’s fresh water, more than all of the Great Lakes combined. It’s the world’s deepest freshwater lake. It’s the world’s largest freshwater lake. It’s the world’s oldest lake. It’s big. It’s ancient. It even, despite being nowhere close to the ocean, has seals. We were looking forward to it.

We drove straight to a town called Gremyachinsk, where we enjoyed a brief lunch on the beach (gotta love instant noodles) before checking out the local hot spring and finding perhaps the best camp spot of the trip. We camped right on a sandy patch of land next to a white-stone rocky beach, surrounded by magnificent pine and birch trees. It was gorgeous, remote, and peaceful. We collected firewood from the forest, took a swim in the crystal clear waters of the lake (supposedly some of the clearest and purest in the world), and then sat down to make the culinary masterpiece that are tacos. Needless to say, they were good. Washing them down with Coronas and lime, we had found our beach for the trip.

Our campsite on Baikal

Our campsite on Baikal

Joe in Baikal

Joe in Baikal

Mike in Baikal.

Mike in Baikal.

The next morning, we drove farther north to Ust-Baguzin, a town at the foot of the Svyatoy Nos peninsula - commonly referred to as the “Holy Nose” in Russian. The peninsula consists of a large mountainous nose-shaped tract of land connected to the mainland by an isthmus. At over 6100 feet, Mount Markova is the highest point on the island, and it was our destination for the day. We checked into a home stay in the nearby town. We elected to have one of the guesthouse hosts drive us in his Toyota Landcruiser 4x4 to the hiking point; it was the right decision and Stevie deserved to rest her weary bones. After a 45 minute drive over tough terrain, we found ourselves at the trailhead of what would end up being one of the most grueling hikes any of us have ever done.

The last portion of the hike ascended the jagged spine of the mountain.

The last portion of the hike ascended the jagged spine of the mountain.

The trailhead said it would be a 14km round trip hike. The elevation gain would probably be over 5,000 feet. Neither figure on its own seemed that daunting. We figured it would be a trail full of switchbacks with splendid views of the lake. The trail started with a gentle elevation gain through through a heavily wooded pine forest, before giving way to switch backs. As we started to climb, we could see the majestic bays of the lake breaking through the forest. It was beautiful and serene. There seemed to be no one else in the park. After an hour or so, the switch backs stopped, and the trail turned sharply upwards. The next two hours were spent climbing straight up an excruciatingly steep ridge of a mountain. The trail was poorly maintained and consisted of a ton of loose rocks and sand. For every two steps we took up, it seemed like we slid back another. Finally, we reached the first landmark: a large white cross that marked a beautiful vantage point. We stopped for a snack and a much needed break before continuing to climb along the narrow ridge. By now, we had passed the tree line. The ridge was rocky and narrow. We were basically scrambling over boulders and jagged rocks. Exhausted, and five hours since we started, we finally made it to the top. We were rewarded with some beautiful views and a deserved feeling of accomplishment. Tragically, as we ate our lunch, a cold rain set in, which caused us to have to end our anticipated long break early. We wanted to get back to the tree cover as quickly as possible After three to four hours of trying not to wipe out on the steep gravel, we made it. Exhausted. But we made it. It really was a difficult hike but our fitness was far from peak as we had been living very much a sedentary lifestyle over the past 45 days. Our driver picked us up and drove us back to the home stay where a wonderful Russian sauna (imagine showering in a dry sauna) and an amazing Russian meal awaited us. We had some sort of sashimi with pickled ginger and onions, borscht, lightly pickled cucumbers and tomatoes, potato pancakes, mashed potatoes, bread, stewed beef, and apple bread. It was honestly some of the better food we had had in awhile. Exhausted and full of comfort food, we called it an early night. The next day would be bitter sweet; we had to drive back to Ulan Ude where we would say goodbye to our dear friend Stevie - FWY

Photo at the white cross on the way up the mountain. Unfortunately, the views only worsened as we climbed due to increasing cloud coverage and fog.

Photo at the white cross on the way up the mountain. Unfortunately, the views only worsened as we climbed due to increasing cloud coverage and fog.

The sun crept out once we got to the base of the hike providing some great views

The sun crept out once we got to the base of the hike providing some great views

Day 43 & 44: Ulan-Ude

Miles driven: 394 miles

Time in Car: 15 hours 

Borders crossed: 1

Over the past few weeks we had become accustomed to the freezing cold mornings of the high mountains and Great Steppe. Today we were pretty sluggish. Usually we were pretty good about getting up and going. But today, with a very long drive and border crossing looking at us, an extra 30 minutes in our dew-soaked tent was necessary. 

We got on the road and made our way to Russia, which inconveniently went right back through Ulaanbaatar at the height of morning rush hour. After enduring well over an hour of Ulaanbaatar morning traffic, we finally made it out of the city and on the road north to Russia. The road to the northern border included roughly 250 km of unpaved, bumpy, meandering roads akin to some of the stuff we went through in central Mongolia. It’s as if Mongolia was making one last ditch effort to destroy our car. But by this point of the rally, we were all pretty aware of Stevie’s limitations. Even though she only has 4 inches of clearance on a light day, we know what she can clear and what she can’t. Based on the thud noises, we know what bottom-outs are bad and which ones are just scrapes. These last 250 km were no different. We made it through just fine even if it took a long time. Stopping quickly for lunch, we stocked up on snacks and supplies one last time, topped off our fuel using our Jerry cans for the first time, and then headed north. 

We made it to the border around 4 pm and then began our last border wait. It took about 4 hours and during that time we chatted up some other rally teams in line. The Russians fully inspected all of our bags and trunk space, the most thorough search we’ve had by far to this point, and then we were on our way around 8 pm. After getting through the border, we decided we’d book it to Ulan Ude and grab a hotel room rather than camp. It was almost dark and a bed would be nice. Also, it was Notre Dame’s CFB opener tomorrow so Mike and Joe were keen on streaming the game via WiFi. We made it to Ulan-Ude easily and checked into our guesthouse. The owner spoke no English but we had no issues. It was midnight and surprisingly there was a 24 hour diner not too far away so we feasted on burgers and pizza before heading to bed around 1 am. 

The next day started early as Mike and Joe made the mistake of waking up early to witness Notre Dame’s abysmal opening game against Louisville. Afterwards, we had a very leisurely morning spent at a local cafe where we planned the rest of our rally. We were officially “finishing” the rally later that day which consisted of filling out a few paperwork items and then getting our photo taken at the Rally official finish line which was a car-stage in the center of Ulan-Ude right next to a gigantic Lenin head statue. We figured we’d recreate the infamous Indy 500 victory celebration with some milk and some flowery wreathes (an homage to our Indianapolis teammate Joe #ClippityClopBestDayOfTheYear). We picked up the supplies and headed to the finish. The finish line was abuzz with other rally teams. Stories were being shared. Good times were being had. Many of these teams we hadn’t seen ever. Some we had seen back in Prague at the start party. Everyone was ecstatic to finish and showing it differently on stage. Once we got on stage, we climbed atop the car and celebrated accordingly as Indy 500 race winners do - swigging the milk and eventually dousing yourself with it. Turns out that milk was thick, salty yogurt. It smelled awful and had more a glue-like consistency. It didn’t stop us from carrying through with our celebration but it did make us utterly disgusting and stinky. After the finish line, we all took much needed showers and then properly celebrated with the other rally teams at a restaurant on the main square. Tomorrow, we escape to Lake Baikal, the largest freshwater lake in the world, before heading back to Ulan-Ude, scrapping Stevie, and having one last party before heading home. Until then - FWY

Finish line

Finish line

Day 42: Mongolia, Day 6

Miles driven: 60 miles

Time in Car: 3 hours 

Borders crossed: 0

Our sixth and final full day in Mongolia started slow in the comfort of our downtown Ulaanbaatar Airbnb. After checking out, we went on the search for a breakfast of a substantial breakfast, but soon found ourselves back at the time tested BK lounge after we couldn’t find anything that met our standards. After some more delicious fried food, we went grocery shopping for the night deciding that grilled cheese was to be the main course tonight. Then we planned we head just a short drive west of Ulaanbaatar to the massive Genghis Khan statue and the Gorkhi-Terejl National Park. 

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The drive out of Ulaanbaatar was painfully slow. Terrible traffic followed by detours across unpaved road made for a slow drive to traverse only 30 or so miles to the Equestrian Genghis Khan Statue. The stainless steel statue itself is quite a marvel and definitely seemed a little out of place considering the surrounding landscape. It stands 40 m tall making it the biggest equestrian statue in the world. Symbolically, the statue sits atop an architecturally European building representing the great Mongol’s conquering of Europe. Genghis faces east to the place of his birth. While to many Genghis Khan is considered as a brutal conqueror known for slaughtering his enemies, Mongolians revere the man as the unifier and first great ruler of Mongolia and this statue definitely displays him in that light. We arrived, took a walk around the complex marveling at the size of the statue before climbing to the top of the horse’s head to get some photos of the surrounding landscape. It was a worthwhile visit. 

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Turtle Rock

Turtle Rock

Next, we drove to Gorki-Terejl National Park, a Park only 40 km west from Ulaanbaatar. We were hoping we could do a hike before setting up camp and making dinner. Upon driving into the park however, we noticed that this place wasn’t one many Americans would consider a National Park as much as a collection of built up hotels and resort yurt camps. This was kind of a bummer because the surrounding area of mountains, valleys, and rivers seemed awesome to explore but it was definitely spoiled by the over development of the area. We didn’t want to pay for a short stay in a tourist camp or hotel so we decided to try to scope out a spot on the outskirts of the park to wild camp. After some driving, we found a dirt road that branched off the main highway that led to a small encampment in the foothills of the western part of the park. We weren’t that far from the road but felt completely isolated in the dense forest and hills. We did a quick hike up one of the hills and climbed some huge rock formations that sat atop. The views were definitely different than any other we had seen since being in Mongolia. The surrounding scenery looked that of early autumn in the Northeastern Appalachians. The leaves were already turning orange, red, and yellow and they painted amazing views across the landscape.

Gorki-Terejl National Park

Gorki-Terejl National Park

We started a sizeable bonfire to fend off mosquitoes and keep warm. For dinner, we eagerly prepared our grilled cheeses. After sautésing some peppers and caramelizing some onions, we opened our three cheeses we had bought that morning in Ulaanbaatar - Monterrey jack, a cheddar, and a mozzarella. Upon inspecting these cheeses, we immediately realized that these grilled cheeses would be subpar. The cheddar smelled funky and tasted terrible too. The mozzarella was straight up inedible - worst cheese I’ve ever eaten. The Monterrey Jack was passable as it melted nicely and didn’t taste like garbage, so we made do with that. After an extremely disappointing dinner, we washed down the last remnants of vodka we had as we incinerated the rest of our burn pile. Tomorrow, we head to Russia and our last border crossing. -FWY

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Day 41: Mongolia, Day 5

Miles driven: 72 miles 

Time in Car: 2 hours 

Borders crossed: 0

We had planned to sleep in a bit, but unfortunately, a curious Mongolian drove up to our campsite around seven, waking us up. We enjoyed a nice breakfast of coffee and ramen, and proceeded to the capital of Mongolia: Ulanbataar. 

With a population of 1.3 million, roughly half of the nation lives in this sprawling city. As a result, it’s welcomely modern, complete with American seeming coffee shops and, our first stop after checking into our Airbnb: Burger King. It was amazing. After a week of eating instant ramen, having actual chewable food was rather enjoyable. We justified the fast food with the thought that later on in the day we would try some Mongolian classics at a well reviewed restaurant.

After hitting up the ol’ BK lounge, we went to the Gandantegchenling Monastery. The center of Mongolian Buddhism, the monastery is know for having the world’s largest indoor statue. While the religious significance of the statue was lost on us, we appreciated the incredible East Asian architecture. It was a reminder of just how far we came.

We later explored the main square, grabbed a beer, and then went to a well-reviewed restaurant that specialized in authentic Mongolian cuisine. We ordered numerous dishes that either food bloggers had recommended or that just looked intriguing (e.g., a horse meat based dish called the horseman). The dishes came. We ate. And well, let’s just say that the beer was good. We chased down our rather disappointing meal worth some beers with another rally team and called it a night. The next day we would head east to a national park and the world’s largest equestrian statue. Until then - FWY

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Main square

Main square

Day 40: Mongolia, Day 4

Miles driven: 333 miles 

Time in Car: 8 hours 

Borders crossed: 0

August 30. Day 4 in Mongolia and we were within striking distance of the capital, Ulanbaataar, which was only 9 hours away. The biggest city in Mongolia had been the official Rally finish line up until a few years ago when it was switched to Ulan Ude in Russia. Turns out that many ralliers had been donating their cars or even giving them away when they finished in Mongolia - the Mongolian government eventually got fed up with this. They slapped a huge import fee (north of $5k) on vehicles so the Rally now ends in Ulan Ude which is a long, strenuous drive over non-roads to the Russian border. Our rally is actually ahead of schedule and we plan to officially shut down the rally at the end party on September 7th. So with our extra time, we decided to take a few extra days in Mongolia the first of which was at Khustai National Park.

Our drive along the Southern Route from our previous night’s campsite was as advertised - asphalt. However, the drive was still very uncomfortable as bumps and buckles in the road gave our rear springs a full workout. Sitting in the back seat was borderline nauseating. Some bumps caused the backseat passenger to fly up against the roof of the car along with gear in the trunk. Apart from the bumps, the drive was relatively easygoing.

We pulled off the road to head to Khustai National Park around 5 pm and the road immediately resumed into nearly impassable gravel roads with washout ruts and giant holes. Khustai National Park is the home of the wild takhi horse. They are also called the Przewalski’s horse crediting the Russian explorer who first saw them. While other wild horses are just domesticated animals gone feral, the takhi is truly wild and still around thanks in part to conservation efforts that saved these horses from extinction in the 1970s. At the National Park entrance, there was a resort style yurt camp; no camping was allowed inside the park. We opted to let Stevie take a spin on the road that winded through the park. Soon after entering, we wish we had hired an SUV from the park office. The ruts and giant potholes were especially grueling causing severe white knuckling  and constant grimacing. We reached a ranger station about a half hour in and decided that we’d just do a quick hike before we try driving any further. We ascended a large hill that provided sweeping views of rolling green hills and mountains bathing in the setting sun. Unfortunately, we didn’t spot any takhi horses. Afterwards, we made it out of the National Park with no issues and had a meal at the park restaurant which happened to be serving Chinese food that night. We then camped outside of the park in an open field. Tomorrow we descend upon Ulaanbaatar. -FWY

Khustai National Park

Khustai National Park

Day 39: Mongolia, Day 3

Miles driven: 178 miles 

Time in Car:12 hours 

Borders crossed: 0

When Tom Morgan inherited an old Fiat, he decided to drive it as far as he could before it broke down. He made it from London to Mongolia before the car haz had enough. Shortly after, he founded the Mongol Rally. 

Mongolia is known among ralliers for its lack of roads. It’s off roading at its finest. The “highway” consists of countless dirt tracks that kind of all go in the same direction-ish. One or two will suddenly veer off to the middle of nowhere though. The trucks make massive ruts and the tracks are filled with giant rocks. If the track you’re following gets too rough, create your own track. It’s a choose your own adventure in which all options leave your car screwed. To make matters more interesting, the landscape is unbelievably vast and empty. Grasslands and deserts as far as the eye can see.

The road

The road

Let’s just call this the day Mongolia threw the kitchen sink at us. Call it cockiness or call it blissful ignorance, but our high confidence in cruising across the Mongolian Steppe was tested today. Spoiler alert, we won the day. But now let’s walk through the ups-and-downs of the day.

None of us really had a good night’s rest thanks to the gusty winds and seemingly every truck driver in Mongolia rolling past our campsite every 15 minutes. We were up early and eager to navigate to the small town of Buutsagaan in hopes that there would be a mechanic or someone with a tool to cut off our dangling, mangled sump guard. Again, the sump guard currently was fastened to the underbelly of our car. The rear left flange weld had sheared off. The center front bolt had also torn clean off. Only the right rear flange weld held true. Some chicken wire held up the left side of the sump while we ratchet strapped the right side over the roof of our car and front doors. We meticulously climbed in Stevie from the rear doors and carefully drove off. We had gone maybe 100 yards before our sump slid off our ratchet strap. After a quick readjustment, we continued on. 20 minutes in and we were actually doing quite well avoiding major rocks and bumps until we hit an unavoidable dip in the road. A loud bang and we saw the ratchet straps lose their tautness. The sump guard’s sharp sides had cut through the ratchet straps. Annoyed, we tried to rip the damn sump guard off. We again hitched our tow top to the folded over metal brackets and pulled. No use. We tried anchoring the tow rope to rocks and driving off. However, we just unearthed the rocks instead. We were thinking of waving down a car to anchor the tow rope to in efforts to tear it off but no cars drove by. Fed up, we decided again to re-ratchet strap the sump to our car and drive extra careful to the town. To top it off, our ABS light was on and remained on. We carried on, extra careful. Eventually we reached the town which showed no promising signs of having a mechanic in town. We asked a few locals to no avail. However, when we checked on the sump guard, to our surprise, the last remaining weld connection had finally sheared off! A bump we hit along the way must have been the final nail in its coffin. We were relieved. We tossed our mangled piece of sheet metal in a dumpster and carried on. 

Stuck once

Stuck once

After Buutsagaan, there was a split in the road. One carried directly eastward while the other carried south and then east; both still met up with the Southern Route that would take us to Ulanbataar. Maps.me directed us to take the latter route - we had no idea which one was better so we followed blindly. The off-roading to this point had been a collection of gravel and rock paths. There was no one “main” road. The paths zigged and zagged and moved in a general direction. Some paths branched off the collection of roads. Navigating was really just following the general direction and trying to pick the road that seemed to have the best surface and least bumps and rocks. After Buutsagaan, the roads changed. All we had now going south were two tire tracks through the bush. These weren’t roads. Long ago some person with a truck decided to cut through the Steppe. Other people followed in those same tire tracks and eventually a road formed that meandered through the grass with no rhyme or reason. We followed the tracks cautiously trying to keep our suspension above any rocks or ruts in the road. The road winded over hills and through valleys of the Steppe and across dried river beds. These river beds posed an issue. The first one we came across we got beached and pretty deep. We dug our tires and undercarriage out as well as we could and gathered grass to give the tires traction. After 45 minute of the failed efforts and faces full of sand, we got the car out. We continued onwards.

We reached the point the road were we finally turned east again. On the map, we knew we’d cross a river and expected we’d have to ford it. Soon enough, we came across a river called the “Baidragiin gol”. No bridge, we were going to ford it. This wasn’t a typical river that had one main artery and two shorelines. The river was shallow with a relatively strong current. It was made up of branches of water that connected intermittently in between small islands of clay, rocks, and mud.

River crossing

River crossing

Our car has about four inches of clearance. The water in front of us was about a foot deep and moving quickly. A team we knew had mentioned crossing this river in their Skoda earlier in the week, so we knew it was possible. Still, we spent some time exploring the river, wading across to test the current and the stability of the river bottom. It was roughly a 50 foot crossing. We went for it. We made it. And we saw that this was just a small branch of the much wider, quicker and deeper river. 

We were at a loss. We spent a long time wading up and down the river, desperately  trying to find a spot where we felt comfortable crossing. We couldn’t. We didn’t know what to do and we hadn’t seen a soul since that small town our sump fell of in. By some grace of God, a Mongolian couple pulled up to the other side of the river to do some laundry. Mike waded over and solicited the man’s help. The man showed us how to jerry rig the intake to avoid flooding the engine and showed Mike the best route to cross (even jumping in the passenger seat to give mid crossing guidance). We made it, thanked the man repeatedly, and gave the man a pack of reds as a sign of our gratitude.

Stevie is an amphibious vehicle

Stevie is an amphibious vehicle

Wheel meet rock

Wheel meet rock

Shortly after, we hit a rock and had our first flat of the trip. This was a much anticipated part of the rally. We quickly changed wheels and went on our way. We now had no spare tire (our second having been stolen off our car in Turkey), no sump guard, and the ABS light was still on, but we were on our way...at least until we got beached in another wash. This one took us awhile to get out, involving a lot more digging, gathering grass, and pushing. We eventually got out and kept going. Finally, we stumbled upon a sweet, sweet, blissful black strip of asphalt. We would be more or less in asphalt all the way to Ulaanbaatar. The first portion of off roading was over. We stopped at the next town to resupply and repair our spare. We drove an hour or so further and found a beautiful campsite surrounded by grassy, rolling hills. The next day we would drive north towards a national park just outside of Ulaanbaatar. Asphalt the entire way.  - FWY

Changing our front left tire

Changing our front left tire

Stuck twice

Stuck twice

Our campsite

Our campsite

Mountains beyond campsite

Mountains beyond campsite